The train from Philadelphia to New York was not especially cheap, and was delayed by about half an hour each way, so it was like a train journey in the UK in a number of respects. I got to see lots of nice small all-American towns in New Jersey (like New Brunswick), and some less nice post-industrial decline (like most of Newark). One thing that did strike me was how much space there is - most things en route were quite low rise, and there was lots of "spare" land lying idle near the railway lines, in a way that you wouldn't see in much of Western Europe. Much of the area (and much of the North East US in general) is suffering from manufacturing decline, so there are lots of derelict, brown-field sites everywhere.
Then, when you start to approach New York, things get really industrial - most of the things that New York needs, but doesn't necessarily want in the city itself, is stuck over in New Jersey - like shipping, distribution, and many of the less glamorous factories. There is sometimes a tantalising glimpse of some Manhattan skyline in the distance, but it is a very different place. Before you get too close to the New York skyline, the train disappears into a long tunnel, and re-emerges inside Penn Station, right in the heart of the city. That means you are deprived of the view of Manhattan from across the river, which is a bit of a shame.
Madison Square Garden is literally right on top of Penn Station, so as soon as I got off the train, I was in the thick of crowds of gig-goers. I picked up my White Stripes ticket, then went for a wander around New York. Times Square is only 10 blocks or so away, so I headed for there - it took a while, as I seemed to need to wait for ages to cross almost every street on the way. I had last been to New York about 6 years ago (just before the 9/11 attacks), and I was quickly reminded how intense and bustling the city is - much more so than London. The city centre in particular seems to be much more of a 24-hour busy city than anywhere else I have been - it is absolutely impossible to be bored here. Of course, the busyness, the pace of everything, and the height of the buildings, all conspire to make it feel slightly claustrophobic at times, but you do also get that amazing feeling of being a very small person, completely surrounded by some very big buildings.
By the time I got to Times Square, it was starting to get dark, so all of the lights were on. The city was humid and sweaty (as it is at this time of year), but I was again left thinking that this the best city in the world. Apart from the roads, which are completely potholed and broken. Times Square was obviously full of people like me, taking pictures of the lights and buildings - but an incredible place all in all. On the way back to Madison Square Garden, I was struck by how very familiar everything seemed. I don't know if this was because I'd been before, or because I live in a similarly big and busy city, or because you see New York on TV and in films - but within a minute of walking out of Penn Station, I felt completely at home.Madison Square Garden is very impressive both outside and inside, with lots of New York Knicks (basketball) and Rangers (ice hockey) memorabilia all around the main arena. There were about 20,000 people there for the gig, and I was sat about halfway up, but almost level with the stage, for a great side-on view. I would love to come back for a basketball game, because I'm sure the atmosphere would be incredible.
Grinderman, Nick Cave's band, were supporting. He is clearly utterly deranged, and has taken enough drugs for there to be a plausible explanation for this. The performance was pretty electric and very good indeed. The songs ranged from some fairly nondescript and self-indulgent wailings, through a few songs that really stood out, all the way to a fantastic heavy song called "No Pussy Blues", with brilliant guitars, clever lyrics, and Nick Cave manically shouting the words. A good set - I probably wouldn't pay to see Grinderman headlining, but I was glad to catch this, and quite enjoyed it.
Half an hour later, Jack and Meg White bounded on stage to a great reception. Jack put his guitar around his neck, and started playing some bluesy riffs, which eventually because Dead Leaves And The Dirty Ground. Quickly followed by When I Hear My Name, an amazing version of Jolene, and a quickfire Hotel Yorba, it was striking how thick and fast the great songs were coming. Jack paused occasionally between songs to ask if everybody was doing OK, and all was going off in riotous style.
Then came one of those rare moments that you remember forever. About two years ago, I wrote that seeing Kasabian play LSF at the London Astoria, was one of the best performances of any song, by any band, that I had ever seen. When the White Stripes played Icky Thump, it was equally, if not more incredible. For most of the song, I was standing, watching Jack White playing a keyboard and a guitar at the same time, with my mouth open in amazement at how great it looked and sounded (the guitar in particular sounded like nothing I have ever heard before). There were shivers going down my spine, it was utterly, utterly fantastic to see how one person could make such an amazing noise - Jack White is a total genius. After Icky Thump, the show continued in the same vein as before - lots of familiarly excellent songs, which degenerated into jamming sessions, before exploding back into life again. The songs are excellent, but White Stripes shows are really all about seeing an absolute musical genius showing off the full extent of his talents. Brilliant stuff.
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